Towering over the southwestern corner of Washington, Mount St. Helens is a sight to see. Once a symmetrical peak reaching over 12,000 feet, its history is forever marked by the dramatic eruption in 1980. This eruption, one of the most powerful in United States history, transformed the landscape, leaving behind a horseshoe-shaped crater and a moonscape of ash and pumice.
Since the eruption, scientists have flocked to the area to study its rebirth. Today, the volcano is slowly rebuilding, with a growing new peak pushing up from the crater floor. The surrounding area, once devastated, is now a protected wilderness teeming with new life. What was once a disaster zone is now Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument, a testament to the power of nature and its ability to heal.
Mount St. Helens is one of the five epic volcanoes that make up the landscape of Washington’s Cascade Range. Mount Rainier, the tallest mountain in the Cascade Range, is by far the most popular destination for hikers and sightseers. But Mount St. Helens is the most beginner-friendly for hiking enthusiasts looking to add a summit to their bucket list.
However, don’t be fooled by its relative accessibility. To successfully summit Mount St. Helens, you’ll need a good level of physical fitness, proper planning, and an awareness of the unique challenges presented by an active volcano. This guide will equip you with all the information you need for a successful and safe first summit of Mount St. Helens. I’ll cover everything from essential training hikes and gear to pack to permits and crucial safety tips. By following these recommendations, you’ll be well on your way to conquering this iconic peak and experiencing the breathtaking beauty of the Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.
Permits for Climbing Mount St. Helens
Climbing permits for Mount St. Helens are mandatory year-round and can be purchased online at https://www.recreation.gov/. They go on sale at 7:00 am Pacific Time on the first day of the preceding month you plan to climb. The cost is $20 per person a day, with an additional $6 reservation fee. This can be a lifesaver, especially with unpredictable mountain weather! My group learned this firsthand. We snagged permits for both May 4th and May 11th, knowing the forecast can be iffy. Thankfully, the weather wasn’t cooperating on May 4th, but having those permits for May 11th allowed us to reschedule our climb and summit successfully. Another perk? You can resell your permits up to 7 days before your climb date. This allows for the potential to recoup some of the cost if your plans change.
Training Hikes to Prepare
I knew that Mount St. Helens 5,715 feet of elevation gain were going to hit me hard if I didn’t get a little bit of training in. Coming off a not-so-active winter fueled by a touch of the blues, I needed to get myself in top shape. Just cranking up the cardio wouldn’t be enough. I needed to tackle mountains with significant elevation gain and learn some technical skills with an ice axe and glissading. Trust me, holding an ice axe for the first time on a steep slope wasn’t exactly my idea of a good time!
My training strategy had several key elements. Three to four times a week, I hit the mat for Yoga Flow for Backpackers. It’s a YouTube video specifically designed to strengthen the core and improve balance. This is crucial for navigating uneven terrain with a heavy pack. Running on the treadmill with my favorite audiobooks kept the cardio interesting, and of course, ensuring I fueled my body with plenty of healthy nutrients was paramount.
Over a two-month period, I completed a series of key training hikes. In addition, I supplemented them with regular moderate-to-hard hikes of 5-8 miles each. Here’s a breakdown of the mountain hikes that truly prepared me for Mount St. Helens:
Mount Ellinor Winter Route (3,438′ elevation gain, 6.8 miles): This challenging route was the perfect training ground for mastering ice axe use and glissading. A steeper grade than Mount St. Helens itself, conquering this peak instilled a huge confidence boost. Just a heads-up: the chute is narrow and rocky, so maybe don’t look down! The views, however, are absolutely breathtaking.
Mailbox Peak (Old Trail Up, New Trail Down) (4,009′ elevation gain, 8.5 miles): A classic Washington hike, Mailbox Peak is a favorite training ground for aspiring volcano summits in the Pacific Northwest. While definitely tough, the biggest hurdle for me was mental, as a previous climb here hadn’t been the most pleasant. Overcoming that mental block felt amazing! This trail offers a little bit of everything – from spring wildflowers and sunshine to rain, slush, golden leaves, and even a snowstorm at the top!
Mount Teneriffe & Kamikaze Trail (4,196′ elevation gain, 10.8 miles): The initial hike to Teneriffe Falls is already gorgeous, but for a true challenge, keep climbing the Kamikaze Trail. Expect rock scrambles, slush, and snow, all guaranteed to test your endurance. The reward? Unforgettable panoramic views on a clear day.
Mount Si Trail (3,395′ elevation gain, 8.4 miles): Okay, this one wasn’t exactly my favorite. The combination of wet conditions, freezing temperatures, and zero views due to thick clouds left me a bit disappointed. If you’re not a Pacific Northwest local, it might still be a scenic hike. But for Washington standards, there are definitely trails with more to offer.
To truly replicate the physical demands and experience of climbing Mount St. Helens, I hiked with the backpack I planned to summit Mount St. Helens with and most of the gear I planned to use. Training with this weight (between 20-25lbs) not only built my endurance for long days on the trail, but helped me get accustomed to the weight distribution. I was able to adjust my packing strategy for optimal comfort and efficiency beforehand. It also allowed me to identify any potential gear malfunctions or items I might not actually need, all before reaching the big day.
This training regimen, combined with consistent cardio and a focus on healthy eating, had me feeling strong and confident heading into my Mount St. Helens adventure.
How to Summit Safely/Safety Tips
The thrill of reaching the summit of Mount St. Helens is undeniable, but safety should always be your top priority. Here are some key tips to ensure you have a successful and safe climb!
- Be Weather Ready: Mount St. Helens weather can change rapidly. Always check multiple forecasts in the days leading up to your climb, focusing on resources that provide high-altitude forecasts. Pack accordingly, with layers for potential rain, wind, and even snow depending on the season. Don’t forget to apply sunscreen everywhere. Trust me, your scalp [try this powder sunscreen for easy application on the scalp], top of your ears, inside/around your nose, and apply a lip balm with SPF. Sun exposure can be intense at high elevations, especially with the additional reflection from the snow.
- Know Your Limits & Be Prepared: Mount St. Helens is a challenging climb, with significant elevation gain and loose terrain. Be honest with yourself about your physical fitness level. Choose a pace that allows you to conserve energy for the entire ascent and descent. This isn’t the time to push yourself beyond your limits. It’s also crucial to be familiar with self-arrest techniques using your ice axe in case of a fall on snow or ice.
- Leave No Trace: Respect the beauty of Mount St. Helens by following strict Leave No Trace principles. Pack out all your trash, including food wrappers and hygiene products. Use designated bathroom facilities at the trailhead, or practice proper waste disposal methods if those aren’t available. Stay on the designated trails to minimize your impact on the fragile mountain ecosystem.
Best Time to Climb Mount St. Helens
The “best” time to climb Mount St. Helens depends on your personal tolerance for crowds, weather, and difficulty. Summer (July-August) offers the most predictable weather and clear skies but also sees the highest number of climbers. Spring (late May-June) and fall (September-October) offer windows of decent weather with fewer crowds. However, there is also a higher chance of encountering snow or ice on the upper slopes, which requires additional gear and navigation skills. Winter ascents are for experienced mountaineers only, with much steeper snow and ice conditions requiring specialized gear and training.
For me, climbing in May offered a good compromise. The snowpack wasn’t too intense, but there was just enough to allow for some glissading on the descent. This is a total lifesaver for these old lady knees!
Where to Stay
Since the mountain is relatively remote, Lone Fir Resort was the perfect base camp for my adventure. Located just a 20-minute drive from the trailhead, it offered a convenient location to rest up before my early morning summit push and unwind afterward. The resort is charming, with a variety of options to suit your needs. I opted for one of their adorable cabins, but they also have campsites, tent platforms, and lodge rooms at various price points. While they don’t have a hot tub to soothe those tired muscles after the climb (which would have been amazing!), they do have a refreshing swimming pool to cool down in. There’s also a restaurant on-site with delicious lunch and dinner options to refuel after your adventure. Plus, if you forgot a last-minute item, their gift shop has a surprisingly good selection of gear to save the day!
What to Wear + Gear Needed
Conquering a mountain like Mount St. Helens requires the right gear – not just to be prepared, but also to be comfortable and safe. I’m here to spill the tea on my entire gear list! Everything from the essentials that were lifesavers to the items that ended up as extra weight in my backpack.
- Backpack: Choose a comfortable, well-fitting backpack with enough capacity (around 40-70 liters) to carry all your essentials. Train with the backpack you plan to use to get accustomed to the weight distribution and make any necessary adjustments for comfort in advance.
- Ice Axe & Microspikes: These are crucial for navigating icy sections and gaining traction on loose terrain.
- Gaiters & Hiking Poles: Gaiters keep out snow and debris, while poles provide extra stability and help distribute weight on your legs.
- Hiking Boots: Sturdy, waterproof boots with good ankle support are essential for uneven and potentially wet conditions. I double-sprayed my waterproof hiking boots with an additional waterproof spray the week before.
- Socks: Pack plenty! I started with a pair of toe socks underneath a thicker pair of hiking socks. I packed an extra pair of toe socks and 2 extra pairs of thicker hiking socks for the descent. My feet were quite wet and uncomfortable from glissading down on my training hikes. I also let a hiking buddy borrow my third pair.
- Base Layers: A sports bra and moisture-wicking long-sleeve top are key for regulating temperature.
- Mid Layers: A warm fleece pullover provides additional insulation when needed.
- Outer Layers: A waterproof rain jacket and rain/snow pants will shield you from the elements.
- Winter Gloves: For warmth and protection while handling your ice axe and keeping your hands warm.
- First-Aid Kit & Ibuprofen: Always be prepared for minor injuries.
- Headlamp: A must-have for climbing in the dark for hours.
- Handwarmers & Sports Tape: Extras for added warmth and potential blister prevention.
- Hydration: A water bladder and a 32 oz Nalgene for backup are key. Throw in some Gatorade for electrolytes too!
- Food: Pack enough for the entire hike (see next section for all the details on what I ate!).
- Hygiene Essentials: Blue bags, wipes, Kleenex – all the necessities.
- Sun Protection: SPF face sunscreen, lip balm with SPF, and polarized sunglasses (with a strap!) or mountaineering glacier sunglasses
Not everything in my backpack actually saw the light of day on Mount St. Helens. Here’s what ended up staying in my backpack:
- Winter Beanie: The weather cooperated, and my fleece pullover kept my head warm enough.
- Crampons: Microspikes were sufficient for the conditions I encountered.
- Puffer Jacket: The fleece pullover proved to be enough insulation.
- Feet Warmers & Snow Shoes: These extras stayed put thanks to the lack of extreme cold and snow.
Every climb is different, and weather conditions can change rapidly. However, this breakdown should give you a solid foundation for building your own gear list for your Mount St. Helens adventure. Remember, it’s always better to be over-prepared than under-prepared.
While the packing list for Mount St. Helens may seem extensive, don’t worry if you don’t have everything you need, especially for specialized gear you might only use once. Thanks to services like GeerGarage, you can tap into a community of outdoor enthusiasts in the Pacific Northwest. GeerGarage is a peer-to-peer rental platform that allows you to borrow items like crampons, ice axes, snowshoes, tents, and more from local adventurers. This can be a much more affordable option than purchasing new gear, and it’s a sustainable way to ensure you have everything you need for a safe and successful summit.
How to Fuel Your Climb / Food Tips for Staying Nourished on the Trail
You won’t believe how much I ate to conquer this epic volcano! Here’s a detailed breakdown of everything I ate, from pre-hike prep to that glorious post-summit feast with calories included.
Pre-Hike Power Up
The climb started super early [2 am], so a light breakfast of a banana (105 calories) and a delicious bowl of overnight oats (250 calories) kept my stomach happy and my energy levels high. To stay hydrated, I also sipped on a refreshing packet of LiquidIV [Grapefruit] (45 calories).
Conquering the Climb, One Bite at a Time
The key to tackling Mount St. Helens is consistent, calorie-rich snacks. Every hour, I munched on a variety of snacks to keep my energy levels from dipping. I kept snacks in the hip pocket of my Osprey backpack. Things like Honeystinger Energy Waffle (Honey, 190 calories) and Honeystinger Energy Chews (160 calories/pack) in fun flavors like Pomegranate Passionfruit, Cherry Blossom, and Fruit Smoothie provided a quick burst of energy. Simply Protein Bar (Chocolate Chip, 150 calories) and a Cliff Bar (Peanut Butter Crunch, 200 calories) provided a balanced mix of protein and carbs. While trail mix (around 200 calories) and Oberto Teriyaki Beef Jerky (80 calories) gave me a savory kick.
For longer breaks and more substantial bites, I packed a classic PB&J (450 calories) and a protein-packed turkey, hummus, and mustard sandwich (470 calories) as well as a tuna pouch (80 calories).
Electrolytes are key at high altitudes! I packed a Gu Gel (Raspberry Lemonade, 100 calories) for a quick sugar rush, some chewy electrolyte tablets (Watermelon, 15 calories) to replenish lost minerals, and even snuck in a couple of fruit leather strips (Apricot & Raspberry, 50 calories each) for a sweet pick-me-up. Staying hydrated is also crucial! I brought along two packets of LiquidIV (Watermelon, 45 calories each) to supplement my water intake.
Let’s not forget the kindness of strangers! A few fellow hikers shared sea salt dark chocolate candy bars and gummy bears at the summit. These hit the spot after a long climb.
Post-Summit Feast of Champions
After conquering the mountain, a celebratory feast was definitely in order at Lone Fir Resort’s onsite restaurant! A juicy burger (350 calories), a mountain of golden fries (200 calories), and a basket of crispy onion rings (200 calories) were the perfect way to end the day.
How to Monitor Mountain Conditions
Staying informed about Mount St. Helens’ ever-changing conditions is crucial for a safe and successful climb. One excellent resource is Mount Forecast, where you can search for “Mount Saint Helens” for detailed weather forecasts specific to different elevations. While the National Weather Service provides valuable information, it doesn’t account for the variations in weather that occur at higher altitudes. For those wanting to tackle the climb during the snowy months, following the Northwest Avalanche Center on Instagram is another great way to stay updated on avalanche risks and snowpack conditions.
Conquering Mount St. Helens was an unforgettable adventure that tested my physical and mental strength and filled me with a great deal of accomplishment. If you’re considering taking on this challenging but rewarding climb, I hope this guide has been helpful. Be sure to check out my Instagram videos here for a more visual journey up the mountain. Happy hiking!
